My original plan for year 2 of my front garden project was to design, prepare the soil, and plant both the Side Slope and the Fragrant Garden. (See Update on the Front Garden Project for a diagram of the various planned garden areas.) During the winter, as I worked on the design for the Side Slope and came to terms with just how big that area is and how many months it would take, I scaled back my plans, deciding that I would try to get most of the soil prepared for the Fragrant Garden this fall, but would design the planting over the winter and put plants in next spring.
My plans changed again in late August, when I learned that my favorite nursery would be closing at the end of the season (see Bittersweet Best Wishes). As a result, when I completed the Side Slope at the end of August (see The Side Slope: Mission Accomplished), I went to work double-time not only on preparing the soil for the Fragrant Garden, but also on designing the planting. The goal was to get as many of the plants as possible in the ground by early October.
The Fragrant Garden is an area roughly 19’ x 10’ at the front of my new addition, sitting under the big master bedroom window. My vision for this garden is that it will be filled from early summer until fall with fragrant flowers whose scent will waft through open windows into my bedroom on summer nights.
I had been making lists of plant possibilities for months, so I quickly put together a planting design (above) as I worked on preparing the soil in September. This will be a mixed planting of shrubs (mock orange and roses), perennials (lavender, dianthus, peonies, daylilies, oriental lilies, phlox) and annuals (night-scented stock, sweet peas, moonflower). The lavender here are Lavandula augustifolia ‘Hidcote,’ which is also growing along the lavender walk to the right of this planting (in front of the deck). As far as I’m concerned, any fragrant garden needs roses and peonies. I have not grown any of the annuals included here before, but they are all highly recommended for fragrant gardens.
Some might be surprised to see daylilies in this planting (except that I love daylilies and grow them in almost all my garden areas ), but the daylilies in this planting are all varieties with wonderful fragrance. They include two clumps of a nocturnal, fragrant pass-along daylily that I’m pretty sure is the fragrant species, Hemerocallis citrina. The other four daylilies are cultivars from the Barth breeding program. The Barths (father Joseph and son Nick) are Maine daylily breeders who were breeding for fragrance during the years that other breeders were working on ruffles, doubling, and picotees. Each grouping of three daylilies will include the midseason-blooming H. citrina, one early-midseason variety, and one late-midseason variety.
I knew that this planting needed some kind of focal point that would work both for those looking out the window from inside and those viewing it from the walkway on the outside. I would have loved one of those big Lunaform urns, but they are way out of my budget. I considered getting a big pot of some kind from a favorite local potter, but I found nothing there that would work well. There was a big pot that had the mass and the strong colors I wanted for this space, but it would need to be brought inside for the winter and is too heavy for me to lift and carry by myself. I also considered some birdbaths they had that come apart into two pieces and are easier to move, but the only two available were both in colors too muted to work well in this location. I finally decided that a better (and more affordable) option would be a cluster of three bright blue gazing balls set on stands at different heights in the center of the flower bed. I’ve included several divisions of the groundcover geranium G. x cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’ to go underneath the gazing balls. I have an infinite supply of this geranium, it has wonderfully aromatic foliage, and it will form a dense mat of low-growing foliage that will keep weeds from growing.
Because this garden area is level and consisted mostly of loose, sandy backfill where few plants had seeded themselves since the construction, the process of amending the soil went much more quickly than it had on the Side Slope. Within a month after I began, the soil was ready for plants, and most went in the ground the first week in October. The Casablanca lily bulbs were added last week, after they arrived as part of my bulb order from Fedco. Roses, phlox, annuals, and one daylily that wasn’t available this fall will be added in the spring.
I’m pleased to have made so much progress on my front garden this year. Next year, I hope to add a small rain garden to the left of this planting (where the downspout carries rain down from the roof) and then move on to the lower garden. By this time next year, my new front garden should be more than half done.
For mid-October in Maine, there are a surprising number of blooms in my garden. I rushed around taking photographs yesterday, ahead of the killing frost forecast for last night. But, in fact, although temperatures fell well below freezing, only tender annuals were affected. Last night’s frost did end the season for the tropical morning glories (Ipomoea tricolor ‘Heavenly Blue’), and most (but not all) of the cosmos were also hit. The annual cleome, however, came through relatively unscathed.
The truth is that I’m tired of the cosmos and cleome, which I planted to fill in the new front flower beds and which turned out to be way too much of a good thing. Although the cleome survived the frost, I’ll probably cut them down this week; I want to make sure that they don’t go to seed and leave me gifts of unwanted cleome plants for years to come.
I am surprised by how many perennials are still in bloom. There are, for example, a few last flowers on the tall summer phlox. Along the Lavender Walk, the lavender are still going strong, where they are still joined by flowers of Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’’.
Further along the walkway, there are also flowers on two varieties of dianthus.
|I’m surprised to see a second flush of flowers on Spirea bumalda ‘Neon Flash,’ which was just planted this year and has been asked to settle in under difficult drought conditions. And these lovely blue delphinium flowers are also a special treat.|
Perennial stalwarts that bloom continuously for month after month are particularly welcome at this time of year. In my garden, 1st place goes to Geranium x oxonianum, which has been gracing the Porch Border with its clear pink flowers since the first week in June. The runner-up is Heuchera x ‘Raspberry Ice,’ which has been blooming continuously since mid-June.
The sedums seem to have transitioned from flowers to seedheads more quickly than usual this year, and only ‘Autumn Joy’ can still be counted as having flowers.
The asters, on the other hand, are enthusiastically performing their role as stars of the fall garden. New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) ‘Alma Potschke’ provides a vibrant splash of color in the Porch Border. It is the more subdued flowers of Symphyotrichum laeve ‘Bluebird’, however, that seem to be most loved by the bees. When I come out to walk through the garden in the chilly morning temperatures, I find many of these bees sleeping, each curled up on its own aster blossom waiting for the warming rays of the sun. When I checked my garden records, I was amazed to find that these flowers (which grow in a protected spot near the foundation of the house) bloomed through the first week of November last year.
New flowers were added this week when the native witch hazels (Hamamelis virginiana) that grow at the edge of the woods along the side of the driveway began to bloom. These flowers can be hard to see against the backdrop of yellow and orange leaves. When the leaves have fallen from the trees, however, the yellow flowers will come into their own and light up the woods in the drab season between fall foliage and snow.
Garden Bloggers’ Bloom Day is hosted on the 15th of each month by Carol at May Dreams Gardens. Visit her blog to see October blooms from gardens around the world.
With the days getting shorter and the nights getting colder, my little cherry tree (Prunus pensylvanica) is, like me, preparing for winter. While I clean up the garden and stack my winter supply of firewood, the tree is stopping the process of photosynthesis and shunting sugars down the trunk to the roots where they will provide sustenance through the winter. This tree shed some of its leaves during the summer in response to our extended drought. As it prepares for winter dormancy, however, it is doing this in a much more generalized way.
The process seems to be working from the bottom up. The lower branches are already mostly bare, the middle branches are sporting a relatively sparse display of yellow and orange leaves, and leaves on the upper branches are mostly still green.
Our fall foliage color is fading more quickly than usual this year, presumably because of the drought. (My town is on the border of the “extreme drought” and “severe drought” areas.) I am quite happy, however, with how my little cherry tree has come through this difficult season. It has held its own and put on new growth, even without any supplemental watering. It will be interesting to see how it performs next year in what I hope will be more normal moisture conditions.
The tree following meme is hosted by Pat English at The Squirrel Basket, where you can learn about the many varieties of trees being followed by garden bloggers.
My garden projects got put on fast forward in late August when I visited my favorite nursery, Plainview Farm, to buy plants for my new Side Slope planting, and learned that the owners, Donna and Steve Palmer, had decided to retire and were closing the nursery at the end of this season. Plainview Farm has been my go-to nursery since I first discovered it 15 years ago through Ruah Donnelly’s The Adventurous Gardener: Where to Find the Best Plants in New England. (See The Gardening Book That Changed My Life) At that time, the nursery had already been in business for 15 years, with husband Steve as the plantsman who provided the vision and wife Donna as the business person with primary responsibility for day-to-day operations.
What made Plainview Farm special was an impressive selection of plants (many of them propagated on site) and wonderful display gardens where you could see those plants in the landscape. When I was planning a new garden area, I would typically walk around the display gardens at Plainview Farm for inspiration. Then, as I worked on a design for the new garden, I would use their web site to develop a plant list. When I was ready to plant, I would go back to Plainview Farm to buy the plants – and very often, I would be able to find everything on my list available for sale.
I knew that Donna and Steve were thinking about retirement. They are of an age to retire, and the years of recession after the financial crisis in 2008 had been difficult ones for independent nurseries. Plainview Farm had scrambled to add products and services (e.g., growing heirloom tomatoes and selling them at area farmers’ markets) to keep the business going through the hard times. Because small specialty nurseries are usually extensions of the owners’ homes and expressions of their personal gardening visions, it is not unusual for these nurseries to close when their owners retire.
But I am in the middle of a big multi-year garden project; and even if the nursery’s closing was not entirely a surprise, it would leave a big gap in my available gardening resources. Donna encouraged me to rethink my schedule to speed up the development of my new Fragrant Garden and take advantage of the big discounts they were offering as they cleared their stock. So I got busy preparing the soil for this new garden area and went back to Plainview Farm twice during their last month of business to buy plants. I was impressed all over again by the depth and and breadth of their stock and by how many plants were still available even in late September. Once again, I found everything on my shopping list. As I was checking out, Steve asked me if I had a shady spot that would make a good home for a cultivar of native baneberry, Actaea pachypoda ‘Misty Blue.’ “I only have two left,” he explained, “and I’d like to see them go to knowledgeable gardeners who will appreciate them.” Then he led me out to the shady display gardens to see the plant growing there. This, of course, sealed the deal, and I added ‘Misty Blue’ to my cart.
This last visit to Plainview Farm was a bittersweet occasion. As a happy retiree, I can only wish Steve and Donna best wishes as they move into what I hope will be an enriching new phase of their lives. But I couldn’t help feeling sad that I wouldn’t have this special plant shopping experience again. Steve seemed to be focusing on the sweet side of retirement, looking forward to a somewhat slower pace of life and enjoying chats and little celebrations (including several gift bottles of champagne) with long-time customers. Donna was more inclined to tear up. Fortunately for all of us, we were saying farewell, not goodbye. Donna and Steve have tentative plans to open their display gardens to the public at some point in the not-too-distant future. Even as I mourn the loss of this wonderful nursery, I am looking forward to future occasions when I will walk through their display gardens to admire plants and be inspired.
Despite drought and some overnight temperatures in the thirties (F), there are still many flowers blooming in my garden. The sedums, of course, are autumn stalwarts, generally unfazed by drought or cold.
I am pleased to see that the sedums have a lot of company in the mid-September garden. In recent years, I’ve been making an effort to choose plants that will extend my garden display into fall.
Given this effort, it’s not surprising that the greatest variety of fall flowers can be found in my newest garden areas. The recently planted Side Slope, for example, includes three varieties of Liatris with overlapping bloom times. The earliest of the three, Liatris spicata, finished blooming in August, but the blooms of Liatris aspera have moved from the top of their tall spikes in mid-August to the bottom in mid-September. And the fluffy button-like flowers of Liatris novae-angliae are now at their peak.
The most exuberant display of fall flowers can be found in the Porch Border by the front entrance to my house. At first glance, the blooms of annual cosmos and cleome dominate, but a closer look reveals a number of other flowering plants. Heuchera x ‘Raspberry Regal,’ Tradescantia virginiana ‘Pink Chablis’ and Geranium x oxonianum have all been blooming continuously for more than three months. While the Heuchera and the Tradescantia are winding down, the Geranium is continuing to make new flower buds. It’s a mystery me why this hardy geranium, with its clear pink flowers and mounds of attractive green foliage that still look fresh in September, is not readily available from nurseries. It is an easy-care plant with no pest problems, it is easy to propagate (forming big clumps that are easy to divide and also self-sowing), and in cool climates, it has an exceptionally long bloom period.
The tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), while not blooming as profusely as they were in August, are also still flowering in the Porch Border (and elsewhere in the garden).
Turning the corner from the Porch Border, we come to the Lavender Walk, which is also doing surprisingly well in mid-September. Here the flowers of two different varieties of Lavendula augustifolia, ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead Strain’ are blooming with Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’ and Sedum x ‘Autumn Fire.’
This is also the time of year to enjoy the many varieties of aster and goldenrod that grow wild at the edges of my garden.
Garden Bloggers’ Bloom Day is hosted on the 15th of each month by Carol at May Dreams Gardens. Visit her blog to see other gardeners’ September blooms.
|When I first began gardening, the gold standard for preparing new perennial beds was double digging. In The Garden Primer (Workman, 1988) – my gardening bible at the time – Barbara Damrosch described the process this way:|
…I remove the soil from a section of the bed to the depth of a spade and set it aside. Then I loosen the soil under it with a digging fork, working organic matter, lime and whatever else the soil needs into the subsoil. I replace the topsoil layer, but only after I have added soil amendments to it as well. (p. 35)
For decades, I followed this practice, using double digging to amend my poor sandy soil and make it a welcoming home for plants.
More recently, however, double digging has come into disfavor. This topic came up early in my Master Gardener course. One classmate reported seeing bumper stickers in her affluent coastal town that read “Friends don’t let friends double dig.” The University of Maine scientist who taught our class on soils seemed mystified by this controversy. The university’s agricultural scientists warn against damaging soil structure through “recreational tilling,” but they consider tilling in soil amendments an important part of taking care of the soil.
To understand my dilemma, you need to understand that my property sits on a big glacial sand deposit, and that my soil is what soil scientists call “loamy sand.” The diagram above shows different types of soil textures, depending on their mix of sand, clay and silt. As you can see, “loamy sand” is just one step up from pure beach sand (in the lower left corner of the triangle); it is a mixture of 70-85% sand with small amounts of clay and silt and has almost no organic matter. Not only are there relatively few plants that will grow happily in this loamy sand, but it is also very poor at retaining either moisture or organic matter. So if I want to garden here, the question is not whether to add organic matter to the soil, but how.
To decide whether or not to double dig my new flower beds, I needed to consider (1) alternative methods for adding organic matter to the soil and (2) the reasons why double digging has fallen into disfavor. Let’s start with the alternatives. One is to add organic matter on top of the existing soil and let it work down into the soil over time. This is the method I use to recharge organic matter in existing flower beds. But I didn’t consider this a workable alternative for my new garden areas; I’m in my late sixties and can’t afford to let years go by while I wait for organic matter to build up in the soil. Another alternative is the “lasagna” method, which involves covering the existing ground with cardboard or wet newspaper and then piling several inches of compost on top. The idea is that the cardboard or newspaper kills any sod or weeds while the organic matter improves the soil. I used a variation on this method to create the raised bed in my back garden, but I don’t want my front garden to consist of raised beds and it seemed as though I would have to pile the organic matter up quite high in order to put plants in right away (rather than waiting for the weeds to die, the cardboard or newspaper to decompose, and the organic matter to work its way down into the soil). A third alternative is tilling rather than digging, spreading several inches of organic matter on top of the soil and then turning it under gently with a garden fork.
To decide between tilling and double digging, I needed to look at the arguments against double digging. The main ones are (a) that soil plays an important role in carbon sequestration so that digging releases carbon into the atmosphere and (b) that digging destroys soil structure. I quickly decided that carbon sequestration wasn’t really an issue in my case; it is the organic matter in soil that provides carbon, and the big problem with my soil is that it lacks organic matter. Soil structure, however, is a trickier issue. Soil structure refers to the way that particles of soil are arranged, particularly the ways that bacteria, fungi, and organisms like worms bind particles together into clumps or soil aggregates. In my earlier double-digging days, I would carefully break up clumps into friable crumbs of soil. Now I know better; soil aggregates are an important part of healthy soil structure, and disturbing the soil inevitably damages soil aggregates. Because my soil had already been disturbed by the construction process, however, there weren’t many soil aggregates to damage.
I decided that double digging is a reasonable way to add organic matter to this backfilled soil. Sure enough, as I have worked with the soil, I have encountered very few clumps. I dig out soil to the depth of my spade and pile it into my wheelbarrow, removing weeds and their associated roots as I go. I also remove any rocks or large stones, but I try to leave any clumps of soil undisturbed. Occasionally, I encounter a lump that may be a soil aggregate or may be a soil-covered rock. In the past, I would have squeezed it to find out, breaking apart the clumps of soil. Now, I tap these lumps gently against the side of my wheelbarrow. If they are rocks, they make a metallic “thunk” sound, but soil aggregates make a soft thud. When I put the soil back into the ground, compost and cow manure have been mixed in with the sand and loamy clumps.
As I worked to amend the soil on my back slope, I noticed a big difference in soil structure when I reached an area that had not been disturbed by the construction. Here my digging did disturb soil aggregates, and a different method for adding organic matter probably would have been preferable. This means that I will need to rethink how I add organic matter to my soil as I begin (next year) to work on sections of the front garden where the poor sandy soil was not disturbed during the construction of my house addition.
This is a large area (almost 450 square feet) and it consists mostly of backfilled soil from the construction of the retaining wall. Even before the soil was disturbed by construction, it was loamy sand with little organic matter (a soil test returned a value of .5%) and little ability to retain moisture. Before I could put in plants in this area, I needed to add organic matter, a time-consuming process. I added 1.5 cubic feet of compost and composted cow manure to each 6 cubic feet of soil, a process that took 45 – 90 minutes for each 6 square feet of soil surface.
I began working on this planting in early June, with a goal of finishing by the end of August. By late June, I had amended the soil in a 3-4 foot swath along the top of the slope and put in a row of plants. For the next two months, I continued to amend the soil in six-square-foot sections, first working my way down the wide end of the wedge-shaped slope, from top to bottom, then along the top of the remaining unworked area, then alternating vertical swaths from top to bottom with horizontal swaths from wide end to narrow end.
|By the beginning of August, as the remaining wedge left to be amended got smaller and smaller, I could see the end in sight and began to visit nurseries to buy plants.|
I developed a planting design for the Side Slope during the winter and continued to refine it as I prepared the soil and began to install plants. I tied this garden area to the Back Slope that occupies the other side of the long stairway up from the driveway by repeating several of the plants that grow there. These include green hostas (probably H. ventricosa or H. fortunei), Siberian irises, tradescantia, balloon flowers, and daylilies. Below is the composition of the final Side Slope planting:
With the Side Slope now planted, I have finished creating my Entry Garden, the plantings that guide a visitor up the stairs from the driveway to the entrance level of my house and then along the walkway to the front door. These plantings include three flower beds around the front door (the Blues Border, Porch Border, and Patio Border) that were created last year and the new Side Slope and the old Back Slope that flank the stairs up from the garden.
I’m giving myself a few days break from major garden projects. Then, next week, I will begin work on the Fragrant Garden at the front of the house outside my bedroom window.